What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide 20%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientMethyl Dihydroabietate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingEthyl Ferulate
AntioxidantCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingLecithin
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantPhysalis Angulata Extract
Skin ProtectingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningIsostearic Acid
CleansingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientZinc Oxide 20%, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methyl Dihydroabietate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Palmitate, Coco-Glucoside, Ethyl Ferulate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Lecithin, Bisabolol, Physalis Angulata Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Isostearic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol
Zinc Oxide 20%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientMethyl Dihydroabietate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCoco-Glucoside
CleansingMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingZinc Oxide 20%, Water, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Diheptyl Succinate, Methyl Dihydroabietate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Coco-Glucoside, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCoco-Glucoside is a surfactant, or a cleansing ingredient. It is made from glucose and coconut oil.
Surfactants help gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants from your skin to be rinsed away.
This ingredient is considered gentle and non-comedogenic. However, it may still be irritating for some.
Learn more about Coco-GlucosideWe don't have a description for Methyl Dihydroabietate yet.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidThis is the synthetic salt of gluconic acid, a form of PHA and mild exfoliant.
It is mainly used to stabilize oil and butter formulations from going bad. Sodium gluconate is a humectant, pH regulator, and chelating agent.
Chelating agents help neutralize unwanted metals from affecting the formulation.
Sodium gluconate is water-soluble.
Learn more about Sodium GluconateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.
On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.
Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.
That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).
The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.
So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.
Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.
That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.
It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.
This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.
Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.
The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.
Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.
The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.
Another thing worth understanding about formulation:
Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.
A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.
Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).
Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.
As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.
This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.
The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.
Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".
You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.
So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.
The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.
Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.
A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.
The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.
So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.
If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide