Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol Versus Paula's Choice Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientCocoglycerides
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentLecithin
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Extract
AstringentCamellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
AstringentGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingTetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantTetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantTetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Lecithin, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Retinol, Punica Granatum Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclodextrin
AbsorbentGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantPropanediol
SolventSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningEquol
AntioxidantResveratrol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantDaidzein
Skin ConditioningGenistein
Skin ConditioningLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientEngelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
ChelatingSodium Citrate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Cyclodextrin, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Squalane, Saccharide Isomerate, Propanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Equol, Resveratrol, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Daidzein, Genistein, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Oil, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient does carry a comedogenic rating of 3 from the old rabbit-ear assay. Just remember testing finished products in humans showed that formulas built with "comedogenic" ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves. It's worth patch testing if you're breakout prone, and always listen to your skin.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilGlycine Soja Seed Extract comes from the seed of the wild soybean plant. Wild soybean extract contains fatty acids (linoleic, oleic, linolenic), vitamin E, and antioxidants.
The wild soybean contains soyasaponins, a bioactive compound. Soyasaponins have inflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial properties. Soyasaponin has also been found to inhibit the melanin-creation process.
Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.
One study from South Korea found wild soybean extract to help promote hair growth at the cellular level.
The wild soybean plant is a cousin to the famous soybean that gives us tofu, soy milk, and soy sauce.
Learn more about Glycine Soja Seed ExtractPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum