What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientPEG-8 Isostearate
EmulsifyingDextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alcohols
EmollientParfum
MaskingGlyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantMentha Arvensis Leaf Extract
MaskingPropanediol
SolventHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantCocos Nucifera Oil
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCentella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientRosa Canina Flower Oil
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantifolia Oil
CleansingRubus Idaeus Seed Oil
EmollientVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate, Water, C12-15 Alcohols, Parfum, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Butylene Glycol, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Cocos Nucifera Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Rosa Canina Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientPEG-8 Isostearate
EmulsifyingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingDextrin Palmitate
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingGlyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientLinalool
PerfumingWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingPinus Koraiensis Seed Oil
PerfumingSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientCoix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Unshiu Peel Extract
MaskingCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningSpirodela Polyrhiza Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Mume Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Dextrin Palmitate, Parfum, Limonene, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Squalane, Linalool, Water, Butylene Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Pinus Koraiensis Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract, Prunus Mume Seed Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe.
The Malassezia yeast feeds on free fatty acids and this ingredient is made up of an aromatic acid and fatty alcohols.
When this ingredient breaks down, it yields benzoic acid (which is antifungal) and fatty alcohols. Neither of these have been found in studies to be a known food source for Malassezia.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilGlyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate isn't fungal acne safe.
Isopropyl Palmitate is a lightweight emollient made by combining isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
It is an emollient that leaves skin feeling smooth and silky without leaving a greasy feel.
Typical usage concentrations range from 1-5%.
Human testing shows it's non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has cleared it at very high levels (79% in leave-on products).
The one thing worth knowing about its comedogenic score of 3-4 is to keep it in perspective: these ratings come from old rabbit-ear tests using 100% of pure ingredient and doesn't reflect how it behaves at low levels in a finished product.
Because it is an ester of palmitic acid (C16), it falls into the range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on and is considered not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isopropyl PalmitateParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a synthetic, oil-loving helper ingredient that does two jobs:
This ingredient is made by joining three building blocks: PEG, Isostearic Acid and glycerin. The PEG gives it the oil-and-water blending power.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics and broader PEG family testing shows minimal irritation/sensitization. The molecule's large size also means it isn't expected to penetrate skin to any meaningful degree.
Fungal acne note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to isostearic acid (C18). Isostearic acid falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about PEG-20 Glyceryl TriisostearatePEG-8 Isostearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.
In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.
It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.
Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl TetraisostearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water