J's Derma Acnetrix Control AC Serum Niacinamide + Zinc PCA Versus Balea Hautrein Anti-Pickel 24h Pflege
This acne serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.
This acne moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantZinc PCA
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Extract
AntimicrobialOriganum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningThymus Vulgaris Extract
Perfuming1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
ChelatingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Zinc PCA, Beta-Glucan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Origanum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, CI 17200, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethylimidazolidinone Rice Starch
AbsorbentHydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingZinc PCA
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Palm Glycerides
EmollientSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBisabolol
AntioxidantSodium Cetearyl Sulfate
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPantolactone
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Dimethylimidazolidinone Rice Starch, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Zinc PCA, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Bisabolol, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Pantolactone, Citric Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA