What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSilicone Quaternium-8
Spirulina Maxima Extract
SmoothingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientSalvia Hispanica Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Centifolia Flower Water
Skin ConditioningSambucus Nigra Flower Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingBehentrimonium Methosulfate
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-10
CleansingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePolyquaternium-59
UV AbsorberCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingArginine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingCystine Bis-Pg-Propyl Silanetriol
Skin ConditioningPCA
HumectantGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Citric Acid
BufferingHistidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Silicone Quaternium-8, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Glycerin, Panthenol, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Sambucus Nigra Flower Water, Glycolic Acid, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Trideceth-10, Potassium Sorbate, Polyquaternium-59, Cetrimonium Chloride, Butylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Cystine Bis-Pg-Propyl Silanetriol, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Citric Acid, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeCinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientArginine
MaskingAvena Sativa Peptide
Skin ConditioningPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantLaurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin
Skin ConditioningArginine Hcl
Skin ConditioningSilicone Quaternium-16
Skin ConditioningAminopropyl Dimethicone
Disodium EDTA
Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantUndeceth-11
EmollientSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeC10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium Ethosulfate
PEG-4 Laurate
EmulsifyingButyloctanol
HumectantC11-15 Pareth-7
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingUndeceth-5
EmulsifyingC12-16 Pareth-9
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantTrideceth-12
EmulsifyingPEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone
EmulsifyingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativeCitronellol
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Myristyl Alcohol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Arginine, Avena Sativa Peptide, Phosphatidylcholine, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Arginine Hcl, Silicone Quaternium-16, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Undeceth-11, Steartrimonium Chloride, C10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium Ethosulfate, PEG-4 Laurate, Butyloctanol, C11-15 Pareth-7, Citric Acid, Undeceth-5, C12-16 Pareth-9, Glycerin, Trideceth-12, PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Aminomethyl Propanol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water