First Aid Beauty 0.3% Retinol Complex Serum with Peptides Versus AlumierMD Retinol Resurfacing Serum
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethiconol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientLaureth-4
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSodium Citrate
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Retinyl Propionate, Retinol, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Laureth-4, Mica, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Propanediol, Sodium Citrate, Sorbitan Isostearate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentPolymethyl Methacrylate
Glycerin
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAlcohol
AntimicrobialRetinol
Skin ConditioningApricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantAspalathus Linearis Extract
Skin ConditioningBoswellia Serrata Extract
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantTetrapeptide-14
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSucrose Palmitate
EmollientGlutathione
Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDecyl Glucoside
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Capric Acid
CleansingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantDimethicone
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Alcohol, Retinol, Apricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Niacinamide, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Honey Extract, Tetrapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sucrose Palmitate, Glutathione, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Linoleate, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Decyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Capric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, BHT, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water