What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientTrilaureth-4 Phosphate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantPotentilla Anserina Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveCynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningSchisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantFructooligosaccharides
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCyperus Rotundus Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Chloride
MaskingGlutathione
Sucrose Distearate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingWater, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Cellulose Gum, Parfum, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Potentilla Anserina Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Fructooligosaccharides, Centella Asiatica Extract, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Chloride, Glutathione, Sucrose Distearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Glucoside
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingSuccinic Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Squalane, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glyceryl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Citrate, Succinic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneMethylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water