Dot & Key Skincare Vitamin C + E Moisturizer Versus Dot & Key Skincare 20% Vitamin C Serum With Blood Orange
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantMethylsilanol Mannuronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Betaine
HumectantCitrus Sinensis Fruit Extract
AntioxidantTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantRosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Niacinamide, Saccharide Isomerate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Allantoin, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Betaine, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, BHT, Parfum, CI 15985, CI 19140
Water
Skin ConditioningEthoxydiglycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitrus Sinensis Fruit Extract
AntioxidantTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Polysorbate 80, Tocopherol, Citrus Sinensis Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Gluconate, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Panthenol, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ascorbic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidThe Citrus Sinensis Fruit is a type of citrus that is a hybrid of pomelo and mandarins.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract is from the Kakadu plum. The Kakadu plum is native to northern Australia. The Kakadu plum holds the record for having the highest amount of natural vitamin C.
This ingredient is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals and thus may reduce the signs of aging.
The high vitamin C content of Kakadu plum also helps lighten skin. Vitamin C has been shown to block the process of skin darkening that leads to hyperpigmentation.
Kakadu plums have been used by indigenous cultures as medicine to help treat colds and as an antiseptic.
Learn more about Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water