What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCoco-Caprylate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventStearic Acid
CleansingCeteareth-20
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualene
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAvena Sativa Kernel Flour
AbrasiveC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Stearic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalene, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Sodium Gluconate, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientIsopentyldiol
HumectantJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningMenthyl Ethylamido Oxalate
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBatyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientOleyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantLinum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSqualene
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningIsobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol
MaskingEthylene Brassylate
MaskingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningZanthoxylum Bungeanum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningTricholoma Matsutake Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAcetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide
HumectantPalmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide
HumectantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningErgothioneine
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Isopentyldiol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Batyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Oleyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Xanthan Gum, Squalene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol, Ethylene Brassylate, Phospholipids, Zanthoxylum Bungeanum Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Bacillus Ferment, Phytosterols, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide, Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Ergothioneine
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSqualane is one of the main components of skin surface lipids. It is naturally found in our skin and makes up about 13% of sebum.
Topically, it is an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
Research highlights its role in antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory effects, skin barrier protection, and wound healing support.
In vivo research has shown that transepidermal water loss (TEWL) caused by irritant exposure can be reverse with squalene supplementation (pointing to barrier recovery support).
Its antioxidant activity is backed by ex vivo and cell-based evidence showing it can scavenge free radicals but large-scale human clinical trials isolating this effect remain limited.
One study found squalene regulated proinflammatory behavior in ways relevant to wound healing, and in vitro fibroblast studies also shows it stimulates cell migration which is a key step in skin repair.
There's just one nuance to know about this ingredient:
Squalene is particularly vulnerable to oxidation; it breaks down from UV exposure 10x faster than the other lipids on your skin's surface. The byproducts of that breakdown can clog pores and trigger inflammation, potentially worsening acne.
This is why squalene is often hydrogenated into its stable counterpart: squalane (with an "a"). Most great formulations will have alreadu kept this in mind.
Squalene has shown no significant clinical evidence of sensitization and is a great hydrating ingredient.
Learn more about SqualeneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum