What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Extract 80%
CleansingWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Water
MaskingPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantEnantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningOleanolic Acid
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassoside
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingSucrose Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract 80%, Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Oleanolic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sucrose Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
EmulsifyingCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract
Skin ConditioningLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentMagnesium Sulfate
Trihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingDextrin
AbsorbentButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingWater, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Propanediol, Zinc Oxide, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Magnesium Sulfate, Trihydroxystearin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Citrate, Dextrin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHouttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.
The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.
Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.
Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.
Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.
The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.
Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata ExtractPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water