What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polybutene
Octyldodecanol
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Synthetic Wax
AbrasiveVp/Eicosene Copolymer
Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer
AbrasiveSilica
AbrasiveCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingVanillyl Butyl Ether
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCapsicum Annuum Fruit Extract
AntimicrobialUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningDicalcium Phosphate
AbrasiveCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientLecithin
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingPolyethylene
AbrasiveCitric Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77163
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77400
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45370
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45380
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene, Octyldodecanol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Synthetic Wax, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Silica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Dicalcium Phosphate, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Lecithin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyethylene, Citric Acid, Parfum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, BHT, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77163, CI 42090, CI 77400, CI 77742, CI 45370, CI 15850, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 73360, CI 17200, CI 19140, CI 15985
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingOctyldodecanol
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPolyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveCandelilla Cera
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningLycium Barbarum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingMenthanediol
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingDicalcium Phosphate
AbrasiveHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientAroma
Limonene
PerfumingCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantBlue 1 Lake
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45370
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Octyldodecanol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Synthetic Wax, Candelilla Cera, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Lycium Barbarum Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Menthanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric Acid, Dicalcium Phosphate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Aroma, Limonene, CI 15850, CI 19140, Blue 1 Lake, CI 45370, CI 45410, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateThis ingredient is lipid-based synthetic skin-conditioning agent derived from adipic acid and a mixture of fatty acids. It is often called a lanolin substitute.
As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate the skin. Emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.
Due to its fatty acid base, it may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.
Learn more about Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140This ingredient is a synthetic reddish-orange dye and is used for its vivid color. It is water soluble.
CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidThis ingredient is a mineral salt of calcium and phosphate. It is mainly used as a mild abrasive and sometimes used to add opacity to a formula.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateThis ingredient is a form of glycerin with emulsifying and emollient properties.
As an emulsifier, this ingredient helps keep products together while adding a thick texture. The manufacturer states this ingredient has emollient properties. Emollients help keep the skin hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is created by reacting diglycerin and isostearic acid. Due to the isostearic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia or fungal acne.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
It has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol