What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingSucrose Stearate
EmollientCoconut Alcohol
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingQuillaja Saponaria Wood Extract
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Coco-Glucoside, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Sucrose Stearate, Coconut Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid
Canola Oil
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSorbitan Trioleate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 85
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingOryza Sativa Bran Wax
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientGardenia Taitensis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Water
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialNonfat Dry Milk
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePropylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDecylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCoumarin
PerfumingCanola Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Trioleate, Polysorbate 85, Glyceryl Behenate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Gardenia Taitensis Flower Extract, Cocos Nucifera Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Nonfat Dry Milk, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin, Water, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Decylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Coumarin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateThis ingredient is also known as sweet almond oil. It is a lightweight, cold-pressed oil from the ripe seeds of the sweet almond tree.
Sweet almond oil is rich in skin-nourishing fatty acids such as oleic acid (55-86%) and linolenic acid (7-35%).
As an emollient, it softens and hydrates skin by forming a thin barrier that locks in moisture.
Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the available safety data and concluded it is safe for topical use.
Because of the oleic acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis OilTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.
Like other plant butters, Cacao seed butter is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. By creating a barrier to trap moisture in, emollients help keep your skin hydrated.
Cacao seed butter contains antioxidants known as polyphenols. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules by stabilizing them. Unstable free-radicals may cause damage to your skin cells. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging.
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter can be bad for acne prone skin.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed ButterTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water