Missha Time Revolution Immortal Youth Blue Essence Versus Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide AP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
Perfuming
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Lecithin
Emollient
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Squalane
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolyquaternium-51
Skin Conditioning
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Parfum
Masking
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Cassia Alata Leaf Extract
AstringentPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Humectant
Disodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
Humectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTripeptide-10 Citrulline
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Decapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Resveratrol
Antioxidant
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate
Surfactant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer
SurfactantTriethanolamine
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceramide NP, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyquaternium-51, Adenosine, Parfum, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Tripeptide-1, Resveratrol, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Maltodextrin, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Lecithin
Emollient
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Glycerin
Humectant
Chlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
Guaiazulene
Antimicrobial
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPeg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil comes from hydrogenated castor oil. It is a solubilizer and emulsifier.
As a solubilizer, it helps dissolve ingredients into a water-based version. It is also an emulsifer. Emulsifier help prevent oils and water from separating. Both these properties help create evenly-spread and uniform products.
Basically, Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil helps hold ingredients together.
Learn more about PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
