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Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate is made up of calcium, aluminum, and silicates. It is a glass-like material. In cosmetics, it comes in the form of flakes or microspheres.

Calcium aluminum borosilicate is a bulking agent, meaning it helps thicken a product.

This ingredient is created by slowly mixing several minerals, including kaolin clay.

Although “aluminum” in an ingredient name can raise red flags for some consumers, the form and usage context matter significantly. For typical topical applications, there is no substantial evidence of health risks - such as cancer, neurotoxicity, or systemic “aluminum overload.”

Learn more about Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate

Cera Alba

Emollient, Emulsifying

Cera alba is beeswax, or the wax used by bees to make honeycombs. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient. A study from 2003 found beeswax to be a stronger emollient than ingredients such as petroleum jelly.

As an emollient, beeswax helps hydrate the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier traps moisture in.

Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating. This helps create consistent texture.

The structure of beeswax is mainly long-chain alcohols and the esters of fatty acids.

There are three types of beeswax: yellow, white, and absolute. Yellow is pure beeswax taken from the honeycomb. White beeswax is created by filtering or bleaching yellow beeswax. Absolute beeswax is created by treating beeswax with alcohol. Beeswax used in cosmetics are purified.

Beeswax has been used throughout history and even in prehistoric times. Some common uses for beeswax still used today are making candles, as a waterproofing agent, and polish for leather.

Learn more about Cera Alba

CI 12085

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 12085 is a synthetic reddish dye.

It is a type of azo dye. Azo dyes must be extensively purified before use. This makes them more stable and long-lasting.

CI 15850

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.

Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.

This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.

It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.

Learn more about CI 15850

CI 15985

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 15985 is a dye made from petroleum. It is synthetically created and approved by the FDA for use in foods and cosmetics.

The color of this dye is orange/yellow.

This ingredient can be found in makeup, sun care, and skincare.

Learn more about CI 15985

CI 17200

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 17200 is a synthetic reddish-purple dye.

CI 19140

Cosmetic Colorant

CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.

Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.

Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.

Learn more about CI 19140

CI 42090

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.

CI 45380

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 45380 is a synthetic dye that comes from coal or tar sources. Due to this, it is often used in small quantities.

A common name for this dye is Red 22. Red 22 imparts a warm reddish color.

Similar to Red 27, this dye changes color based on pH and moisture levels.

This dye is colorless when dry but turns pink between pH levels 0.0 to ~3.0.

Learn more about CI 45380

CI 45410

Cosmetic Colorant

CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.

It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.

This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:

Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.

According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.

Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.

Learn more about CI 45410

CI 73360

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 73360 is a synthetic red-pink dye.

CI 77163

Cosmetic Colorant

This synthetic powder is used to add a pearly/white color in cosmetics.

CI 77491

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Learn more about CI 77491

CI 77492

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Learn more about CI 77492

CI 77499

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

CI 77742

Cosmetic Colorant

This ingredient is used to add a violet color to cosmetics.

It is created by reacting phosphoric acid, ammonium dihydrogen orthophosphate, and manganese dioxide.

CI 77891

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Learn more about CI 77891

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Stabilising

Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.

It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.

Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.

Learn more about Disteardimonium Hectorite

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Emollient

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid. It is a fatty acid ester.

The fatty acid content of Ethylhexyl Palmitate makes it an emollient. Emollients help soften and hydrate your skin by trapping moisture within.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate is also used to help improve the texture of cosmetics. It helps other ingredient dissolve in products and help disperse ingredients more evenly.

You'll likely find this ingredient in sunscreen, as it is often used to mix UV-blocking ingredients such as avobenzone and ethylhexyl triazone.

It can also help stabilize the fragrances in a product as a fragrance fixative.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate can be used to substitute mineral oil.

Due to its high fatty acid content, it may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Glucomannan

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glucomannan is a fiber created from the Konjac plant. It is an emulsifier and thickener.

The high polysaccharide content makes it great at adjusting the texture of products. (Kind of like starch).

Polysaccharides also help our skin stay hydrated.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Learn more about Glucomannan

Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax

Emulsion Stabilising

Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax isn't fungal acne safe.

Parfum

Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum

Polyethylene

Abrasive

Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.

It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Emulsifying

This ingredient is a form of glycerin with emulsifying and emollient properties.

As an emulsifier, this ingredient helps keep products together while adding a thick texture. The manufacturer states this ingredient has emollient properties. Emollients help keep the skin hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is created by reacting diglycerin and isostearic acid. Due to the isostearic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia or fungal acne.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Propyl Gallate

Antioxidant, Perfuming

Propyl Gallate is an antioxidant and is a fragrance.

Propylene Carbonate

Solvent

This ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.

Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.

Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.

Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.

Learn more about Propylene Carbonate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

This oil comes from the seeds of the desert shrub called Jojoba. It is more commonly known as jojoba oil, a non-comedogenic oil.

Jojoba oil does not contain fragrance and has many fatty-acids, making it a great soothing ingredient.

It also contains Vitamin E, a great moisturizing ingredient. Vitamin E is also an antioxidant and protects your skin against oxidative damage.

This ingredient humectant properties, meaning it helps draw moisture from the air. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

While jojoba has antibacterial properties, it is only able to kill some strains of bacteria.

Studies also show it helps in wound healing. In fact, Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fun fact: Jojoba oil similar to natural human skin sebum, so it has a great effect on dry skin. It is also promising with helping to regulate sebum production.

Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate

Synthetic Wax

Abrasive, Emulsion Stabilising, Masking

Synthetic Wax is created from fossil fuels such as natural gas. It is used to enhance texture, adjust pH, and as an occlusive.

It may also be used as an abrasive ingredient to exfoliate the skin.

Synthetic Wax may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Synthetic Wax

Tocopherol

Masking, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol

Trihydroxystearin

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes from Hydroxystearic Acid, a fatty acid, and glycerin. It is used to thicken oils.

Due to its fatty acid content, it is a natural emollient.

Creating trihydroxystearin involves using a chemical reaction between hydrogen and castor oil.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.

Learn more about Trihydroxystearin

Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes from trimethylolpropane and isostearic acid. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties.