m.ph Underpainting Face Palette Versus Merit Beauty The Minimalist Perfecting Complexion Foundation and Concealer Stick
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSilica
AbrasiveDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientDiisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientCI 77220
Cosmetic ColorantHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Tribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosandioate
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingJojoba Esters
EmollientStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingCaprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientPropylene Carbonate
SolventCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Diisostearyl Malate, Octyldodecanol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, CI 77220, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Glyceryl Tribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosandioate, Sorbitan Olivate, Jojoba Esters, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Propylene Carbonate, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctyldodecanol
EmollientSilica
AbrasivePolyethylene
AbrasiveDipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Synthetic Wax
AbrasiveTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDimethicone
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPropylene Carbonate
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingGlycerin
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantBHT
AntioxidantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Polyethylene, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Synthetic Wax, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Cera Microcristallina, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Carbonate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Glycerin, Water, Mica, BHT, CI 77491, CI 77891
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
This ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaStearalkonium Hectorite is a clay-derived ingredient used to thicken a product and help create a gel-like texture.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate