What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
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Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientIsodecyl Oleate
EmollientIsopentyldiol
HumectantDioctyldodecyl Dodecanedioate
EmollientSodium Phytate
ChelatingPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientLinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingGlyceryl Ricinoleate
EmollientCyclodextrin
AbsorbentPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingPEG-75 Stearate
SurfactantPolyglycerin-3
HumectantHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingGluconic Acid
ChelatingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Isodecyl Oleate, Isopentyldiol, Dioctyldodecyl Dodecanedioate, Sodium Phytate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Jojoba Esters, Linoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimer Dilinoleate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Cyclodextrin, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, PEG-75 Stearate, Polyglycerin-3, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Parfum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Gluconic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Citral, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningPEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate
EmulsifyingDicetyldimonium Chloride
EmulsifyingPolyquaternium-37
Isopentyldiol
HumectantPropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAmaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantCynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingPropanediol
SolventGluconic Acid
ChelatingZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentPPG-1 Trideceth-6
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingWater, PEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-37, Isopentyldiol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Propanediol, Gluconic Acid, Zea Mays Starch, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Citronellol, Citral
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolGluconic acid is a mild acid and PHA.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
This ingredient also has chelating properties. This means it is often used to remove or inactivate unwanted metals in formulations.
PHAs also exhibit antioxidant activity by neutralizing free-radical molecules. This can help with anti-aging.
Fun fact: Gluconic acid can be naturally found in honey, wine, and fruit.
Learn more about Gluconic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalIsopentyldiol is a synthetic solvent, humectant, and emollient.
Humectants have the ability to attract and hold water while emollients create a thin film to prevent water from evaporating. This combination keeps your skin and hair soft and hydrated. Plus, isopentyldiol does not leave a sticky feeling behind.
As a surfactant, isopentyldiol is a hydrotrope. Hydrotropes help surfactants (cleansing agents) dissolve into water.
According to the manufacturer, using this ingredient with sorbitol boosts skin hydration and helps close cuticles of damaged hair.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about IsopentyldiolLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water