What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingIsododecane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventRetinol
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingSucrose Laurate
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTrisodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzoic Acid
MaskingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 60730
Cosmetic ColorantCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Isododecane, Propanediol, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sucrose Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Trisodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Citric Acid, Behentrimonium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, CI 60730, CI 14700
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientGossypium Herbaceum Fruit Water
MaskingRetinol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialBidens Pilosa Extract
HumectantLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingHumulus Lupulus Extract
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Polyacrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthyl Ferulate
AntioxidantWater, Propanediol, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Gossypium Herbaceum Fruit Water, Retinol, Glycerin, Bakuchiol, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethyl Ferulate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Learn more about Hexylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum