What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Isopentyldiol
Humectant
Tranexamic Acid
Astringent
Betaine
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Azelaic Acid
Buffering
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Sinensis Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Reticulata Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingGlycerin
Humectant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Polyglycerin-6
HumectantInulin
Skin Conditioning
Fructose
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLactic Acid
Buffering
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Phytate
Cellulose
Absorbent
Water, Gluconolactone, Pentylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, Tranexamic Acid, Betaine, Propanediol, Azelaic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Sinensis Peel Extract, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Allantoin, Polyglycerin-6, Inulin, Fructose, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantErythritol
Humectant
Betaine
Humectant
Glyceryl Glucoside
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
Masking
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Disodium EDTA
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Cyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin Conditioning
Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract
Skin Protecting
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Antioxidant
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Masking
Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningZanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Citric Acid
Buffering
Gluconolactone
Skin Conditioning
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Exfoliating
Azelaic Acid
Buffering
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Betaine, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glucose, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Cyanocobalamin, Panthenol, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Salicylic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinAzelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. Itβs known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
