What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Paraffinum Liquidum
Emollient
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Skin Conditioning
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
PEG-150 Distearate
Emulsifying
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Sorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Betaine
Humectant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Chlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Masking
Rose Flower Oil
Masking
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Swiftlet Nest Extract
Skin ConditioningCaulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Skin Protecting
Chrysanthemum Indicum Callus Culture Extract
Antioxidant
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Antiseborrhoeic
Parfum
Masking
Triethanolamine
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hyaluronic Acid, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Betaine, Allantoin, Chlorphenesin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Rose Flower Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Swiftlet Nest Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Chrysanthemum Indicum Callus Culture Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Parfum, Triethanolamine
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
