This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPEG-20
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBisabolol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicSodium PCA
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Phospholipids, PEG-20, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Retinal, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Ceramide NP, Xanthan Gum, Bisabolol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Sodium PCA, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSodium PCA
HumectantWheat Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingWater, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phospholipids, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Ascorbic Acid, Retinal, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium PCA, Wheat Amino Acids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyproline, Ethylhexylglycerin, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/capric glycerides are a mixture of fats from caprylic and capric acids.
As an emollient, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides helps soften and moisturize the skin. Emollients create a moisture-trapping film on the skin.
Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric GlyceridesEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPhospholipids are a family of skin-identical lipids that makeup the structural backbone of every cell membrane in your body.
In cosmetics, they function as skin conditioning agents with emulsifier and surfactant properties. They're typically sourced from soybean or sunflower lecithin (or sometimes egg yolk or marine sources).
Because they mirror the lipids naturally found in the deeper layers of your skin, topical phospholipids help reinforce the lipid matrix, reduce transepidermal water loss, and leave skin feeling conditioned.
They're also used to form liposomes, or tiny self-assembling vesible used to stabilize actives like vitamin c or retinol. This helps these ingredients integrate into the upper layers of skin more easily.
Phospholipids are compatible with everything and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded them to be safe at current use levels.
Some types of phospholipids include:
Learn more about PhospholipidsRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Learn more about Sodium PCAWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water