What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Dimethicone
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningPaphiopedilum Maudiae Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventEthylhexyl Cocoate
EmollientGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCholesterol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Paphiopedilum Maudiae Flower Extract, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Ceramide NP, Phenoxyethanol
C9-12 Alkane
SolventDimethicone
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventTrisiloxane
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-14
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHordeum Vulgare Extract
EmollientCucumis Sativus Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingPhytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantSqualane
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientLinoleic Acid
CleansingOleic Acid
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingHydroxystearic Acid
CleansingTriolein
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Hydroxystearate
EmollientEthoxydiglycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeC9-12 Alkane, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Trisiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Squalane, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Hydroxystearic Acid, Triolein, Bisabolol, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Mica, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethyl Isosorbide is a low-irritation solvent that helps deliver actives into your skin. It is created from glucose.
Research shows how well this ingredient works depends on the active and formulation rather than the concentration alone. This means adding more Dimethyl Isosorbide does not guarantee better penetration of ingredients into the skin.
This ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.
Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.
The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.
Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:
This ingredient has no negative side-effects and is safe to use unless one has a specific allergy to it.
Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.
Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root Extract