This oil-control serum is formulated around Lactic Acid and Cellulose to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBetaine
HumectantCellulose
AbsorbentVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingAlcaligenes Polysaccharides
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingKaolin
AbrasiveAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
AntioxidantPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingIllite
AbrasiveSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Polyquaternium-7
Iris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantMethylsilanol Tri-PEG-8 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 60730
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Betaine, Cellulose, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Zinc Gluconate, Parfum, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Kaolin, Adenosine, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Illite, Sodium Metabisulfite, CI 77491, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Polyquaternium-7, Iris Florentina Root Extract, BHT, Methylsilanol Tri-PEG-8 Glyceryl Cocoate, Tocopherol, CI 14700, CI 60730, CI 19140
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningAlgin
MaskingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tetrasodium EDTA
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveSodium Citrate
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
HumectantSodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialMaltodextrin
AbsorbentIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingAspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Algin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Parfum, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Cellulose Gum, Adenosine, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, BHT, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 42090, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCi 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.
CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWe don't have a description for Iris Florentina Root Extract yet.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Tocopheryl Phosphate is an antioxidant.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum