What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-6 Stearate
EmollientYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSuccinoglycan
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcetyl Hydroxyproline
EmollientIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingMannose
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Mannose Phosphate
HumectantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion StabilisingSoy Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPantolactone
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingRosa Damascena Flower Extract
MaskingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingCitrus Junos Peel Oil
AstringentCistus Ladaniferus Oil
EmollientGeraniol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Yeast Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Succinoglycan, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Acetyl Hydroxyproline, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Mannose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Soy Amino Acids, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Pantolactone, Sodium Hydroxide, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citrus Junos Peel Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDibutyl Adipate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPropylheptyl Caprylate
EmollientIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingDimethicone
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTrisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Cetyl Alcohol, Dibutyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinYou probably know this ingredient as Thiamidol. It is often called the "hydroquinone alternative" because of it's pigment-fighting abilities.
This ingredient is patented by Beiersdorf (the owner of Nivea, Eucerin, and La Prairie).
It works by in inhibiting tyrosinase (the enzyme your melanocytes use to produce melanin) so less pigment ends up deposited in your skin.
Here's something interesting:
Most brightening ingredients you've heard of like kojic acid, arbutin, and even hydroquinone were originally tested on mushroom tyrosinase. And it turns out, mushroom tyrosinase works pretty differently from the human kind.
So Beiersdorf screened 50,000 compounds against actual human tyrosinase, and Thiamidol came out as the strongest. It showed to be more potent than hydroquinone or arbutin at blocking the human enzyme.
It's been shown to fade melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun spots at 0.1-0.2% twice daily with visible results in about four weeks. One randomized trial even found 0.2% Thiamidol worked just as well as 4% hydroquinone on melasma but with fewer side effects.
This ingredient is generally well-tolerated and minor irritation has been reported very infrequently.
Be sure to also check out Rucinol, another "hydroquinone alternative".
Learn more about Isobutylamido Thiazolyl ResorcinolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water