What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSorbitol
HumectantButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientBetaine
HumectantEthylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientHydrolyzed Elastin
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningIllicium Verum Fruit Extract
PerfumingArginine
MaskingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Betaine, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Arginine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Bakuchiol 0.2%
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-19
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicWater, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Alpha-Arbutin, Panthenol, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Bakuchiol 0.2%, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caffeine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-19, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Biotin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about Panthenolsh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-1Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.
It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water