What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlucose
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantLithothamnion Calcareum Powder
AbrasiveMica
Cosmetic ColorantThioctic Acid
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-14m
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Borate
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Glucose, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Glucosamine, Panthenol, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder, Mica, Thioctic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Carotene, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PEG-14m, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Borate, Butylene Glycol, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Silicate
BufferingMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentSodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate
AbrasivePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningFoeniculum Vulgare Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningMedicago Sativa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCarrageenan
Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-8 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveOctyldodecanol
EmollientSymphytum Officinale Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica
BHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Skin ConditioningSteareth-20
CleansingSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Silicate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dipeptide-2, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Retinyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Foeniculum Vulgare Seed Extract, Medicago Sativa Seed Extract, Carrageenan, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Silica, Octyldodecanol, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Steareth-20, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water