What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPetrolatum
Emollient
Polybutene
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Tribehenin
Emollient
Water
Skin ConditioningBHT
Antioxidant
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
CI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantButylene Glycol
Humectant
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Dna
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
CI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantGlycerin
Humectant
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Petrolatum, Polybutene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Microcrystalline Wax, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Tribehenin, Water, BHT, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, CI 77891, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, CI 77491, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, CI 15850, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dna, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 19140, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPolybutene
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Tribehenin
Emollient
Ethyl Vanillin
MaskingSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polydecene, Polybutene, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tribehenin, Ethyl Vanillin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 77891, CI 19140, CI 15850
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybuteneSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin
