What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Polybutene
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientParfum
Masking
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Emollient
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Tribehenin
Emollient
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Tin Oxide
Abrasive
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Parfum, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tin Oxide, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, CI 77891
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Squalane
Emollient
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Tribehenin
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Portulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose Cocoate
Emulsifying
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecanol, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Squalane, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Tribehenin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Sucrose Cocoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin
