Plum Goodness Calendula & 10% Vitamin C Barrier Boosting + Glow Serum Versus Plum Goodness 15% Vitamin C Face Serum With Mandarin
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventBetaine
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingCitrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingOlive Oil Glycereth-8 Esters
EmollientCyclodextrin
AbsorbentEthoxydiglycol
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantMaltitol
HumectantSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
EmollientSodium Gluconate
ChelatingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Sodium Citrate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Olive Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Cyclodextrin, Ethoxydiglycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Maltitol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Sodium Gluconate, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventBetaine
HumectantIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientEthoxydiglycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingCitrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantRosa Damascena Extract
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTrilaureth-4 Phosphate
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
ChelatingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Betaine, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidThis ingredient is an extract made from mandarin orange peels and mostly valued in skincare for two things:
Testing on the peel extract back this up too; it has shown strong antioxidant activity plus meaningful collagenase + elastase inhibition.
There's also some promising early research that suggests it may help calm sensitive and reactive skin by blocking the receptor involved in stringing/burning sensations.
Safety wise, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel looked at this extract at a 3% use level and found no phototoxicity in testing. So it's considered non-photosensitizing at typical cosmetic concentrations.
However, it is derived from citrus so people with known citrus allergies may want to patch test first.
Learn more about Citrus Reticulata Peel ExtractEthoxydiglycol (aka Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether) is one of the cosmetic world's quiet problem solvers.
In a formula, it is a solvent that dissolves tricky ingredients that don't want to mix in and helps spread ingredients evenly across your skin without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling
This makes it great for hard-to-dissolve actives like vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and self-tanner DHA.
It also has mild humectant and penetration enhancer abilities so it can help some actives absorb a little deeper.
The penetration boost is backed by lab research: studies using human skin samples found it improved how well an active dissolves into the upper layer of skin rather than tearing down your skin barrier. Reviews of its mechanism also describe it interacting gently with the lipids and water in your outermost layer of skin.
Just know this penetration-enhancing effect is not universal. It helps a lot in some formulas and did very little in others (so the benefit really depends on the specific product).
Safety-wise, the evidence is reassuring. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed it and concluded it's safe for use in cosmetics and recognized it as non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic in skincare.
Typical leave-on skincare usage lands around 1-10%. The EU has sets caps of 2.6% in non-spray products, 10% in rinse-offs, 7% in oxidative hair dye, and 5% in non-oxidative hair dye.
Learn more about EthoxydiglycolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Gluconate is the sodium salt of gluconic acid. In skincare, its main job is as a chelator.
Chelators grab onto stray metal ions like iron and copper that sneak in through water, raw materials, or manufacturing equipment. This stops them from triggering reactions that cause oils to go rancid, formulas to change color, and actives like vitamin C to fall apart.
This ingredient is often chosen as a biodegradable, gentler-sounding alternative to EDTA. It also pulls double duty as a mild humectant and pH buffer.
Typical use levels sit around 0.1-1% and supplier documents list up to 10% as an acceptable ceiling. Industry data found this ingredient family is mostly used well below 1% in leave on products.
Allergy risk is very low; animal testing has found it to be non-irritating to skin and eyes, mutagenicity assays came back negative, and there are no published reports of allergic contact dermatitis to it.
Learn more about Sodium GluconateTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract is from the Kakadu plum. The Kakadu plum is native to northern Australia. The Kakadu plum holds the record for having the highest amount of natural vitamin C.
This ingredient is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals and thus may reduce the signs of aging.
The high vitamin C content of Kakadu plum also helps lighten skin. Vitamin C has been shown to block the process of skin darkening that leads to hyperpigmentation.
Kakadu plums have been used by indigenous cultures as medicine to help treat colds and as an antiseptic.
Learn more about Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum