What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantTranexamic Acid
AstringentTocopherol
AntioxidantIllite
AbrasiveBromelain
Skin ConditioningPapain
Skin ConditioningSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingC15-23 Alkane
SolventC13-14 Alkane
SolventGlucose
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Niacinamide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Tocopherol, Illite, Bromelain, Papain, Superoxide Dismutase, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Decyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, C15-23 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, Glucose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingNiacinamide
SmoothingLactic Acid
BufferingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCandelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
EmulsifyingArginine
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTranexamic Acid
AstringentAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Esters
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningKojic Acid
AntioxidantSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentPapain
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingXimenia Americana Seed Oil
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantZinc PCA
HumectantGlucose
HumectantSucrose
HumectantPolysilicone-11
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycolic Acid, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Arginine, Allantoin, Tranexamic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Cetyl Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Kojic Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Papain, Alpha-Arbutin, Mandelic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ximenia Americana Seed Oil, Sodium PCA, Zinc PCA, Glucose, Sucrose, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePapain is an enzyme found naturally in the papaya plant's leaves, fruit, and roots. It has antimicrobial, soothing, and wound healing properties.
Glycine and Vitamin A are naturally found in papain.
While papain is often touted as skin-lightening, further studies are needed to prove this. However, papain has been shown to help soothe acne-inflammation.
Papain belongs to a class of enzymes called proteolytic enzymes. These enzymes break down peptides and amino acids.
Some studies found papain to be a potential skin sensitizer and allergen. Those with latex allergies might also be allergic to papaya.
Learn more about PapainTranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.
Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.
Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.
This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:
This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.
The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.
Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.
Learn more about Tranexamic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water