What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHexylresorcinol
Antimicrobial4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantArbutin
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingLactic Acid
BufferingGlycolic Acid
BufferingSalicylic Acid
MaskingRetinol
Skin ConditioningSd Alcohol 40-B
AstringentButylene Glycol
HumectantKojic Acid
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingArginine
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPhloretin
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMalic Acid
BufferingAzelaic Acid
BufferingTartaric Acid
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Sulfite
PreservativeSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Hexylresorcinol, 4-Butylresorcinol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Arbutin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Retinol, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Butylene Glycol, Kojic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Arginine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Phloretin, Phenoxyethanol, Malic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycolic Acid
BufferingPropanediol
SolventSodium Hydroxide
BufferingMalic Acid
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSalicylic Acid
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingMentha Piperita Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Alpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantAzelaic Acid
BufferingBisabolol
AntioxidantGlutathione
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingKojic Acid
AntioxidantChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingWater, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Malic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Salicylic Acid, Allantoin, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Alpha-Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, Bisabolol, Glutathione, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Kojic Acid, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidKojic Acid is a naturally occurring organic acid that is produced during the fermentation of certain fungi. It is one of the most well-studied brightening ingredients (tyrosinase inhibitors) out there.
That's why you'll see Kojic Acid in products that target dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and general uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with other brightening actives like Alpha Arbutin, Glycolic Acid, and Vitamin C derivatives.
By latching onto the copper that the enzyme tyrosinase needs to function, Kojic Acid prevents less pigment from being made. It's so well-established that researchers regularly use it as the go-to benchmark when testing new brightening ingredients.
Some other perks include documented antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. The The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concluded Kojic Acid is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1% and the EU's SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers it safe as a skin lightening agent at concentrations up to 0.7%.
One thing to know about Kojic Acid is that stability is its weak spot; it is sensitive to light, heat, and air exposure and will oxidize/turn brown in formulations. Its derivative, Kojic Dipalmitate, was developed as a stable alternative.
Some individuals have reported contact sensitization so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or sensitive skin.
Fun fact: It was first discovered in 1907 and naturally occurs in the production of sake, soy sauce, and miso.
Learn more about Kojic AcidMalic Acid is an acid with both AHA and BHA properties, but is considered an AHA because its AHA properties are stronger.
It can be naturally found in unripe fruit and especially apples (its name from the latin word "malum", meaning apple!).
Like other AHAs, malic acid gently removes the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin underneath.
Though it’s considered milder and less potent than glycolic or lactic acid, it can help improve:
Due to its larger molecular structure, it penetrates the skin more slowly and is often used in combination with other AHAs to enhance their overall effectiveness.
Malic acid often plays a role in balancing a product’s pH and is usually included in small amounts (around 1-2%) as a supporting exfoliant.
As with all exfoliating acids, you should wear sunscreen daily when using malic acid to protect your newly resurfaced skin.
Fun fact: Malic acid is the compound responsible for the tart flavor of apples and other sour fruits.
While research on malic acid is limited compared to glycolic or lactic acid, it’s still a safe and mild exfoliant.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Malic AcidNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSalicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water