e.l.f. cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Acne Calming Water Cream Versus Cetaphil Dermacontrol Oil Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30 - Sensitive & Oily Skin
This acne moisturizer is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and calm redness.
This oil-control day moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate to balance excess oil and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Salicylic Acid 1%
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantSilica
AbrasivePropanediol
SolventIsododecane
EmollientTranexamic Acid
AstringentGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Caprylic Acid
CleansingCI 77288
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantSalicylic Acid 1%, Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Silica, Propanediol, Isododecane, Tranexamic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Tromethamine, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Capryloyl Glycine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Caprylic Acid, CI 77288, CI 77492
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Salicylate 5%
UV AbsorberOctocrylene 7%
UV AbsorberAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Glycerin
HumectantGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolymethyl Methacrylate
Polysorbate 61
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSilica
AbrasiveSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSucrose Tristearate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTriethanolamine
BufferingWater
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Allantoin, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Ceramide NP, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polysorbate 61, Potassium Sorbate, Silica, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sucrose Tristearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethanolamine, Water, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Gluconate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate is a synthetic powder used as an absorbent, thickener, and anti-caking agent.
As an absorbent, it is great at mattifying skin by soaking up the oil. This is why you'll find it in a range of products from makeup to moisturizers.
This ingredient is considered a modified starch. Starch can also be found naturally in plants.
One study from 1991 found that 5% of this ingredient enhanced titanium dioxide SPF by as much as 40%. The study found 1% titanium dioxide had a 5.6 SPF and adding 5% of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate boosted it to an SPF of 8.1
Although “aluminum” in an ingredient name can raise red flags for some consumers, the form and usage context matter significantly. For typical topical applications, there is no substantial evidence of health risks - such as cancer, neurotoxicity, or systemic “aluminum overload.”
Learn more about Aluminum Starch OctenylsuccinateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum