This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHexylresorcinol
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantDisodium EDTA
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Italica Extract
AstringentLinoleic Acid
CleansingCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantAnanas Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientOleic Acid
EmollientAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTranexamoyl Dipeptide-23
BleachingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingLevulinic Acid
PerfumingLinolenic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Niacinamide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Allantoin, Hexylresorcinol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Disodium EDTA, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Linoleic Acid, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleic Acid, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Tranexamoyl Dipeptide-23, Xanthan Gum, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Levulinic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
Solvent3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningC12-14 Alketh-12
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialHexylresorcinol
AntimicrobialGlucosylrutin
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingButylene Glycol
Humectant4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningEthyl Hexanediol
SolventSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantResveratrol
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSoluble Collagen
HumectantWater, Methylpropanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, C12-14 Alketh-12, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine, Glycereth-26, Ferulic Acid, Hexylresorcinol, Glucosylrutin, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, 4-Butylresorcinol, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Ethyl Hexanediol, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Resveratrol, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glutathione, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Soluble Collagen
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCurcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.
While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.
This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.
Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.
One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.
At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.
Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.
Learn more about Curcuma Longa Root ExtractDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinAnother popular name for this ingredient is Synovea HR. This ingredient is a skin lightener and antioxidant.
Like other skin lighteners, it blocks the process of skin darkening. Specifically, this ingredient blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for darkening skin when exposed to UV.
Hexylresorcinol works well with other ingredients. Studies show this ingredient boosts the effect of niacinamide, various forms of vitamin C, and retinoids.
Many consider this to be a safer alternative to hydroquinone. In fact, this ingredient produces the same results as hydroquinone in lower amounts.
Fun fact: This ingredient can also be found food and medicine for treating skin infections.
Gentle reminder from SkinSort: all skin tones are beautiful!
Learn more about HexylresorcinolPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum