What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
EmulsifyingCamellia Sinensis Leaf
PerfumingRibes Nigrum Seed Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingBrassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil
EmollientSolanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveJasminum Officinale Flower Water
MaskingCucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningLepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLilium Tigrinum Extract
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningJasminum Officinale Flower Extract
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingSaururus Chinensis Leaf/Root Extract
AntimicrobialArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningBroussonetia Kazinoki Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Absinthium Extract
Skin ConditioningMelissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Water, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Saururus Chinensis Leaf/Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Broussonetia Kazinoki Bark Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilThis ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilSorbeth-30 Tetraoleate is a surfactant and emulsifier.
This ingredient is a tetraester from oleic acid and polyethylene glycol ether of sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it helps ingredients such as oil and water mix together. This allows the dirt and oils in your skin to be washed away.
One study found pumpkin oil containing Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate helped hydrate the skin and did not cause any irritation.
Learn more about Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate