What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientJojoba Esters
Emollient
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Squalane
Emollient
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Medica Vulgaris Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Portulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningGlucomannan
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Water
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
Emollient
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientTriisostearin
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Sucrose Cocoate
Emulsifying
Trihydroxystearin
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient
Aroma
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Jojoba Esters, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Squalane, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Sodium Hyaluronate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Citrus Medica Vulgaris Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Glucomannan, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Water, Tribehenin, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Triisostearin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sucrose Cocoate, Trihydroxystearin, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Aroma
Petrolatum
Emollient
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientEthylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Tribehenin
Emollient
Aroma
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Sodium Saccharin
MaskingPortulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
BHT
Antioxidant
Trihydroxystearin
Skin Conditioning
Sucrose Cocoate
Emulsifying
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin Conditioning
Amorphophallus Konjac Root Powder
Abrasive
Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Beeswax, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Aroma, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Saccharin, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, BHT, Trihydroxystearin, Sucrose Cocoate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Amorphophallus Konjac Root Powder
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.
The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.
Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:
āAroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.ā
INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".
However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.
In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.
Learn more about AromaThis ingredient is a high-molecular weight synthetic polymer. It is used to modify the viscosity of a formula, improve slip, and create a more "cushiony" texture.
Due to its large molecular size, this ingredient is not absorbed into the skin.
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is derived from cetearyl alcohol and sorbic acid.
It is an emollient and helps hydrate the skin. Emollients form a barrier on the skin to prevent water from escaping.
This is a synthetic polymer used to thicken formulas, improve texture, and enhance spreadability.
Due to its large molecule size, this ingredient does not penetrate the skin and is considered well-tolerated.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.
First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.
What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?
This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.
Matrikines play a role in:
Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptideā38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.
This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl syntheā6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38We don't have a description for Portulaca Pilosa Extract yet.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSucrose cocoate is a mild multitasking ingredient made by esterifying sugar with the fatty acids of coconut oil.
It functions as a surfactant, emulsifier, and skin-conditioning ingredient all in one.
Typical use concentrations range from:
This ingredient is well-tolerated across skin types and has been classified safe for use in cosmetic products by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. It's even considered gentle enough for use in baby care products like shampoos and lotions.
Fungal acne note: Sucrose cocoate is a fatty acid ester derived from coconut oil that contains fatty acids in the C12-18 range. This is the range that Malassezia can metabolize, meaning this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sucrose CocoateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninTrihydroxystearin is what you get when you fully hydrogenate castor oil into a waxy, fine powder.
It's mostly a behind-the-scenes texture enhancer that's especially good at "thixotropic" thing where the product stays thick but applies nicely.
Because of its structure, it also acts as a mild skin conditioning emollient that helps soften skin while preventing moisture loss.
Safety studies show it to be safe and non-irritation in clinical tests. It's typically used in concentrations up to 5%.
Since its an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can potentially feed on. This makes it not fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Trihydroxystearin
