What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingButylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMelaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningEndomyces Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningVincetoxicum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingWater
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin Conditioning4-Terpineol
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Phytate
Dextrin
Absorbent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Endomyces Ferment Filtrate, Vincetoxicum Atratum Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Water, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, 4-Terpineol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Dextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventBetaine
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningEthoxydiglycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Centella Asiatica Extract
CleansingOctyldodecanol
EmollientAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingC12-13 Pareth-9
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialAngelica Keiskei Extract
AntioxidantCorchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingNelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Skin ConditioningZinc PCA
HumectantMelaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Disodium EDTA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Octyldodecanol, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Glycolipids, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-13 Pareth-9, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Corchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Zinc PCA, Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinWe don't have a description for Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract yet.
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract comes from the Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, Myrtaceae. This tea tree is native to Australia.
Tea Leaf extract contains antimicrobial and anti-acne properties.
This ingredient has perfuming properties and contains linalool and limonene. These fragrance and terpinen components can cause skin sensitivity.
Learn more about the benefits of Tea Tree Oil here.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.
On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateSodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum