What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberDimethicone
EmollientSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberGlycerin
HumectantBenzophenone-3
UV AbsorberButylene Glycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningXylitol
HumectantGlucose
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningAnhydroxylitol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantOxothiazolidine
Skin ProtectingVaccinium Corymbosum Seed
AbrasiveVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract
MoisturisingGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantC9-12 Alkane
SolventHydrogen Dimethicone
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, Benzophenone-3, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lecithin, Sodium Levulinate, Xylitol, Glucose, Propylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Anhydroxylitol, Glyceryl Stearate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oxothiazolidine, Vaccinium Corymbosum Seed, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract, Glyceryl Glucoside, Zinc Oxide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Ceramide AP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, C9-12 Alkane, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide, Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialIsostearic Acid
CleansingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningPEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer
Silica
AbrasiveGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventDidecyldimonium Chloride
EmulsifyingPolyquaternium-80
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentWater, Zinc Oxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isostearic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Silica, Glycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Caprylyl Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-80, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide