What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingCitrus Grandis Seed Extract
AstringentTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate
BufferingDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Reticulata Peel Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientVanillin
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingSodium Phytate
Benzyl Alcohol
PerfumingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil, Tocopherol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Vanillin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Sodium Phytate, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Linalool, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil is better known as wheat germ oil. It's a golden oil that softens skin as an emollient and deliver antioxidants.
Most of its fatty acid profile is dominated by linoleic acid (~55%) with smaller amounts of palmitic, oleic, and linolenic. Linoleic acid helps reinforce the skin barrier and slow moisture loss.
Wheat germ oil's real claim to fame is its vitamin E content; it has the highest vitamin E of any vegetable oil. This gives is strong antioxidant properties and helps the oil resist going rancid.
Patch-testing of wheat-germ products has shown no irritation or sensitization, and this ingredient is a great choice for dry skin. It might be a bit heavy for acne-prone or oily skin.
There are just three caveats worth knowing:
Like other plant oils, it contains the C11-24 fatty acids that Malassezia can metabolize. Therefore, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Refined oils carry very little protein, but anyone diagnosed with a wheat or gluten allergy should patch test just to be cautious.
While blogs like to list this ingredient with a comedogenic rating of 5, the original study was actually done on a different ingredient: wheat germ triglycerides. Wheat germ triglycerides actually scored a 3 and not a 5. The 5 appears to be a mix-up that spread across charts over the years, with no actual data behind it.
Learn more about Triticum Vulgare Germ OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water