What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetyl Dimethicone
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Emollient
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin Conditioning
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract
Polyethylene
Abrasive
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate
Emulsifying
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantParaffin
Skin ConditioningPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Emollient
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingHexadecene
SolventCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Aluminum Hydroxide
EmollientSilica
Abrasive
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Humectant
Parfum
Masking
Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phenyl Trimethicone, Synthetic Wax, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Octyldodecanol, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract, Polyethylene, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, CI 77891, Paraffin, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Cera Microcristallina, Hexadecene, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, Tocopheryl Acetate, CI 15850, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aluminum Hydroxide, Silica, Tocopherol, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Parfum
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Parfum
Masking
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Limonene
Perfuming
Benzyl Benzoate
Antimicrobial
CI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polybutene, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diisostearyl Malate, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Parfum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Limonene, Benzyl Benzoate, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 77891, CI 15985
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.
In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.
It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.
Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl TetraisostearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol
