What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolybutene
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Polyphenylsilsesquioxane
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Menthoxypropanediol
Masking
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantDiisostearyl Malate, Polybutene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyphenylsilsesquioxane, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Synthetic Wax, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Isostearate, Menthoxypropanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Tocopherol, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 42090
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolybutene
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Menthoxypropanediol
Masking
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingParaffin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Propylene Carbonate
SolventEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
Abrasive
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Aroma
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
MaskingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantDiisostearyl Malate, Polybutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Menthoxypropanediol, Synthetic Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Paraffin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Aroma, Hexylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, CI 77499, CI 15850, CI 77491, CI 45410
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is a synthetic emollient that works as a lanolin substitute.
This ingredient is a great vegan option for those avoiding animal-derived ingredients.
It mostly stays on the surface of skin where it helps hydrate due to its large molecular size and low water solubility.
Due to it being derived from fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia or fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Menthoxypropanediol can cause irritation and worsen rosacea.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybutenePolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
It has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Learn more about Synthetic Wax
