What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolybutene
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Menthoxypropanediol
Masking
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingParaffin
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Propylene Carbonate
SolventEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
Abrasive
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Aroma
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Vanillyl Butyl Ether
MaskingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantDiisostearyl Malate, Polybutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Menthoxypropanediol, Synthetic Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Paraffin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Carbonate, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Aroma, Hexylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, CI 77499, CI 15850, CI 77491, CI 45410
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate
EmollientVp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Paraffin
Skin Conditioning
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantSorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Alumina
Abrasive
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer
Abrasive
Propylene Carbonate
SolventParfum
Masking
Dextrin Palmitate
Emulsifying
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Mangifera Indica Seed Oil
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Water
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Diisostearyl Malate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Paraffin, Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, CI 45410, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Synthetic Wax, Alumina, Disteardimonium Hectorite, CI 15985, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Propylene Carbonate, Parfum, Dextrin Palmitate, Tocopherol, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer is an exfoliant.
Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
Paraffin is a solid wax that pulls its weight as an emollient, occlusive, and consistency-booster.
It softens skin and lays down a protective film to slow water loss and gives products a stable body and structure.
The cosmetic grade stuff is highly refined with a solid safety record. The CIR Expert Panel has repeatedly reaffirmed this ingredient to be safe in current practices of use and concentration.
The worry about carcinogenic compounds only applies to industrial grades, not the purified version used in skincare.
Despite its reputation, the highly reformed form is non-comedogenic and doesn't penetrate deeply into skin.
The good news for fungal-acne prone folks: the Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids and lipids and paraffin doesn't contain any of these (so there's nothing for the yeast to metabolize). This ingredient is considered fungal acne safe.
Learn more about ParaffinThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
