Remedy For Dry Lips Versus Facile Lip Jelly
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Petrolatum
EmollientHydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningSucrose Acetate Isobutyrate
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientSqualane
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingPetrolatum, Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Tribehenin, Squalane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Lactic Acid
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientEthylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Squalane
EmollientCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Tribehenin
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPortulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose Cocoate
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecanol, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Squalane, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Tribehenin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Sucrose Cocoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin