Palmer's Skin Success Anti-Dark Spot Fade Cream for Dry Skin Versus Palmer's Skin Success Anti-Dark Spot Complexion Bar Soap
This brightening treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPropylene Glycol
HumectantStearyl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPEG-75 Lanolin
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantDimethicone
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningTricholoma Matsutake Extract
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingButylene Glycol
HumectantMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Sulfite
PreservativeSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantSodium Lauryl Sulfate
CleansingSodium Sulfate
BHT
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMethoxyethanol
SolventParfum
MaskingCitronellol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingWater, Glyceryl Stearate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Stearyl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-75 Lanolin, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Isopropyl Myristate, Retinol, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Sulfate, BHT, Ethylhexylglycerin, Methoxyethanol, Parfum, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Sodium Tallowate
CleansingSodium Palm Kernelate
CleansingWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantLanolin
EmollientParfum
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingPentasodium Pentetate
ChelatingTetrasodium Etidronate
ChelatingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingSodium Tallowate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Water, Glycerin, Lanolin, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Chloride, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, CI 77891, Citronellol, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolHydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".
Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.
Limonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water