What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Lauryl Sulfate
CleansingSodium Laureth Sulfate
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantCocamide Mipa
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyquaternium-10
Parfum
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Polyquaternium-7
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingArginine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingPCA
HumectantGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
MaskingHistidine
HumectantWater, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Glycerin, Cocamide Mipa, Phenoxyethanol, Polyquaternium-10, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-7, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Histidine
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
CleansingPEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingAcrylates Copolymer
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePisum Sativum Peptide
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingLinalool
PerfumingSodium PCA
HumectantLimonene
PerfumingSodium Lactate
BufferingArginine
MaskingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingAspartic Acid
MaskingDisodium EDTA
PCA
HumectantHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingPEG-4 Dilaurate
EmulsifyingPEG-4 Laurate
EmulsifyingCitronellol
PerfumingCalcium Sodium Borosilicate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialGeraniol
PerfumingGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingCoumarin
PerfumingIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativePEG-1m
Emulsion StabilisingSerine
MaskingValine
MaskingTetrasodium EDTA
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Histidine
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Parfum, Acrylates Copolymer, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Phenoxyethanol, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Sodium Hydroxide, Linalool, Sodium PCA, Limonene, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Aspartic Acid, Disodium EDTA, PCA, Hydroxycitronellal, PEG-4 Dilaurate, PEG-4 Laurate, Citronellol, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Geraniol, Glycine, Alanine, Coumarin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, PEG-1m, Serine, Valine, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77891, CI 15985, CI 16035, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineAspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.
Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.
Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.
One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:
Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.
Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.
Learn more about HistidineIsoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.
Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPCA is an amino acid derivative and one of the star players in your skin's own Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
The NMF is the built-in cocktail of small molecules that keeps your outer layer of skin hydrated and your body makes it naturally.
This is why it works so well topically; PCA is a humectant that holds water in the stratum corneum and studies link higher skin PCA levels to better hydration + lower water loss. Interestingly, people show more PCA in summer and in normal vs dry skin.
Most of the benefits of this ingredient are related to hydration, softness, and barrier support.
A long-running review found that formulas with at least 2% PCA or its salts improved dry skin over both the short and long term. And the zinc salt is also used for its mild antimicrobial and astringent properties.
The salt forms are more common in cosmetics (like sodium PCA).
This ingredient is compatible with basically everything and pairs well with other humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid.
Usage-wise, it's typically used at low percentages (~0.2-2%).
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded PCA and its salts are safe as used and is non-irritating on skin even at high concentrations.
Learn more about PCAPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPhenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.
This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.
Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.
Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.
Learn more about PhenylalanineProline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineSodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Learn more about Sodium LactateSodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Learn more about Sodium PCAThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Valine is an essential amino acid. It is used by our bodies for tissue repair and muscle growth.
An essential amino acid is one in which our bodies cannot naturally produce so we must get them through diet. Foods such as eggs, dairy, red meat, and fish contain valine.
This ingredient can either be derived from an animal product or be synthetically created.
Learn more about ValineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water