What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDihydroxyacetone
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantEthoxydiglycol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningErythrulose
TanningHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentDecyl Glucoside
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningJuglans Nigra Shell Extract
AstringentAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantDimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentMaltodextrin
AbsorbentBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dihydroxyacetone, Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Panthenol, Erythrulose, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Decyl Glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Juglans Nigra Shell Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Parfum, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Alcohol, Citric Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, CI 16035, CI 17200, CI 19140, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantDihydroxyacetone
Skin ConditioningPEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmulsifyingDihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Moschata Seed Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningCucumis Sativus Seed Oil
EmollientAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Propylene Glycol, Dihydroxyacetone, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Caramel, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Metabisulfite, CI 42090, CI 16035, CI 19140, CI 17200, CI 15985
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ci 16035 is a synthetic dark-red dye. This dye is created from an acid called Allura red AC, an azo dye.
Azo dyes need to be purified thoroughly before use. This makes them more stable and longer lasting.
This dye is commonly used in foods, approved by both the FDA and EFSA.
Learn more about CI 16035CI 17200 is a synthetic, water-soluble, reddish-pink dye. It is used purely as a cosmetic colorant.
In the US, the FDA permits this ingredient in cosmetics but it is not approved for use around the eyes while the EU allows this to be used in all cosmetic products.
The FDA requires batch-to-batch certification for this ingredient that is held to a pretty rigorous standard. That means the CI 17200 in your cosmetics has been tested and approved before it ever reaches you.
Contact allergy to cosmetic-grade dyes used at low concentrations are uncommon but has been documented before.
This ingredient also goes by the name D&C RED NO. 33.
CI 17200 has a comedogenic rating of 1 and an irritancy rating of 2 on a scale of 0-5. This is based on peer-reviewed research from the man who invented the comedogenic scale.
A 1 on the comedogenic scale is about as low as it gets without being a flat zero, and makes sense for CI 17200.
It's a water-soluble dye used at very small concentrations (typically 0.001-0.1%), so it dissolves into the water phase of a formula rather than sitting on your skin the way an oil or wax would.
The irritancy rating of 2 reflects that, like most synthetic dyes, there's a small possibility of mild irritation ( particularly for people with existing dye sensitivities).
For the vast majority of people, it's a non-issue at typical use levels.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Just so you know, the FDA ban on Red Dye No. 3 refers to CI 45430, not this ingredient. CI 45430 and CI 17200 are different chemical compounds with distinct safety and regulatory histories.
It's also worth noting that Red No. 3 (CI 45430) was already banned from cosmetics back in 1990, so the 2025 action just extended the ban to food and oral drugs. CI 17200 was never part of any of this.
Learn more about CI 17200CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
Dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is the active ingredient in self-tanners.
It's a simply sugar that reacts with the free amino acids in your outermost layer of skin to produce brown-colored compounds called melanoidins.
DHA does not penetrate living skin cells, does not interact with melanocytes, and does not affect actualy melanin production.
There's a "safety controversy" that largely stems from misinterpreted studies:
Once concern is that DHA can generate unstable molecules that can damage cells (free radicals) when exposed to sunlight. This only happens in the outermost layer of dead skin cells and wearing SPF on top takes care of it.
The DNA damage claim comes from lab studies that doused living skin cells in much higher concentrations of DHA than you'd ever find in a self-tanner. That's not really a meaningful comparison to putting self-tanning lotion on your skin.
Regulatory bodies around the world, including the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and the U.S. FDA consider it safe for use in cosmetics when applied topically (maximum 10%, and most self-tanners contain between 3-5%).
Learn more about DihydroxyacetonePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium metabisulfite is also known as Sodium Pyrosulfite. It is a preservative, antioxidant, and disinfectant.
As a preservative, it helps stabilize cosmetic formulas without affecting their color or scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water