L'Oreal 12% Niacinamide + Amino Sulfonic + Ferulic Acid Dark Spot Serum Versus Nivea Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Expert Dual Action Serum
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingDimethicone
EmollientIsopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialPhenylethyl Resorcinol
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIsohexadecane
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantPoloxamer 338
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingTin Oxide
AbrasiveTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDimethiconol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Octyldodecanol, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Citric Acid, Ferulic Acid, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Myristate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, CI 77891, Isohexadecane, Mica, Poloxamer 338, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Oleate, Tin Oxide, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Dimethiconol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialCocoglycerides
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentAcetyl Hydroxyproline
EmollientUbiquinone
Antioxidant1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Skin ConditioningCreatine
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol Denat., Cocoglycerides, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Distarch Phosphate, Acetyl Hydroxyproline, Ubiquinone, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Creatine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum