What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingHydroxyethyl Urea
Humectant
Sodium Citrate
BufferingVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingGlycerin
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Phytic Acid
Carrageenan
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
Masking
Disodium EDTA
Acer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Abrasive
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin Conditioning
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Juice
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingSodium Benzoate
Masking
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Water, Alcohol Denat., Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Sodium Citrate, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Glycerin, Propanediol, Phytic Acid, Carrageenan, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Disodium EDTA, Acer Saccharum Extract, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbyl Glucoside
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycereth-26
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
C12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Betaine
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Emulsifying
T-Butyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglycerin-3, C12-14 Pareth-12, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Betaine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Tromethamine, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
