What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientTorreya Nucifera Seed Oil
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSalicylic Acid
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantMadecassoside
AntioxidantGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Dextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialOpuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningOrchid Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Unshiu Peel Extract
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Alcohol, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Torreya Nucifera Seed Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Polysorbate 20, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Madecassoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Orchid Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialNiacinamide
SmoothingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingCnidium Officinale Root Water
MaskingAngelica Acutiloba Root Water
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveTromethamine
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingMentha Arvensis Leaf Extract
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Dextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Alcohol, Niacinamide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Salicylic Acid, Cnidium Officinale Root Water, Angelica Acutiloba Root Water, Silica, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDextrin is used to thicken a product and helps bind ingredients together. It is created from starch and glycogen.
As an emulsifier, dextrin prevents ingredients from separating. This helps elongate a product's shelf life.
Studies show coating UV filters with dextrin prevents these ingredients from being absorbed. This helps UV ingredients last longer on the skin.
Learn more about DextrinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Glyceryl CaprylateThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
This extract comes from Rosa centifolia petals and flowers. It has astringent, masking, skin conditioning, and tonic properties.
The compounds in this ingredient can give skin a toning feel, which is why it's sometimes described as a mild astringent. It's often described as a tonic because rose ingredients have long been used in facial waters and toners for refreshing the skin.
Rosa centifolia has a natural floral scent that can mask or soften unpleasant odors from other ingredients.
Like other botanical extracts, people with very fragrance-sensitive skin may prefer to patch test.
Learn more about Rosa Centifolia Flower ExtractSalicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, itβs still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidThis ingredient is extracted from the seeds of the cocoa tree.
Cacao seeds contain antioxidants known as polyphenols. These include flavonoids, procyanidins, and epicatechins.
Studies show these polyphenols help improve skin health.
The more famous ingredient from cocoa tree is cocoa butter.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum