What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
Emollient
Emulsifying Wax Nf
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Azadirachta Indica Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Emulsifying Wax Nf, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbic Acid, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Alcohol, Azadirachta Indica Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Camellia Sinensis Callus
Antimicrobial
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Emollient
Emulsifying Wax Nf
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Ethyl Ether
SolventAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ferulic Acid
Antimicrobial
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Idaeus Extract
Skin ProtectingVaccinium Corymbosum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Extract
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
Antimicrobial
Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil
Emollient
Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract
AntimicrobialTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Masking
Camellia Sinensis Callus, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Emulsifying Wax Nf, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethyl Ether, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Sodium Hyaluronate, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Extract, Vaccinium Corymbosum Fruit Extract, Salix Alba Extract, Alcohol, Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice comes from leaves of the aloe plant. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is best known for helping to soothe sunburns. It is also anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antiseptic, and can help heal wounds.
Aloe is packed with good stuff including Vitamins A, C, and E. These vitamins are antioxidants, which help fight free-radicals and the damage they may cause. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice also contains sugars. These sugars come in the form of monosaccharides and polysaccharides, folic acid, and choline. These sugars are able to help bind moisture to skin.
It also contains minerals such as calcium, 12 anthraquinones, fatty acids, amino acids, and Vitamin B12.
Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceAscorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidAscorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited. Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.
Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract comes from the cranberry fruit. Vaccinium Macrocarpon is the North American species of cranberries native to eastern Canada.
As an astringent, cranberry extract helps tighten the pores by constricting the cells.
Cranberries contain Vitamin E and Vitamin C, both potent antioxidants. It also contains minerals such as manganese and copper.
Learn more about Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit ExtractThis is not considered an INCI ingredient.
Emulsifying Wax NF is about 2/3 cetearyl alcohol and 1/3 polysorbate 60. In cosmetics, this blend is usually listed out as the individual ingredients.
The NF stands for National Formulary, meaning it conforms to the approved composition.
This ingredient is used as an emulsifier. It stabilizes the product by keeping oils and waters together.
Learn more about Emulsifying Wax Nf
