fur Stubble Cream Versus OSEA Blemish Balm
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientOleyl Erucate
EmollientDimethyl Ether
SolventGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSalvia Sclarea Oil
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
Alcohol
AntimicrobialTapioca Starch
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Oleyl Erucate, Dimethyl Ether, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearyl Alcohol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Alcohol, Tapioca Starch, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningGigartina Skottsbergii Extract
Skin ConditioningMacrocystis Pyrifera
Algae
Skin ConditioningUndaria Pinnatifida Vesicles
HumectantVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Olivate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantSaccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingSaccharomyces/Manganese Ferment
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSaccharomyces/Zinc Ferment
Skin ConditioningMyrtus Communis Leaf Oil
PerfumingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientThymus Vulgaris Oil
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCupressus Sempervirens Oil
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingSodium Lauroyl Glutamate
SurfactantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingLonicera Caprifolium Extract
AstringentLonicera Japonica Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingWater, Gigartina Skottsbergii Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera, Algae, Undaria Pinnatifida Vesicles, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces/Manganese Ferment, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Myrtus Communis Leaf Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Thymus Vulgaris Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Stearic Acid, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Citric Acid, Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Lonicera Japonica Callus Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia OilThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum