What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPisum Sativum Peptide
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
Buffering1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Magnesium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Citric Acid
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingWater, Isononyl Isononanoate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycine Soja Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyisobutene, Magnesium Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Water
Skin ConditioningIsopentyldiol
HumectantJojoba Esters
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRetinol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientErgothioneine
AntioxidantGellan Gum
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Isopentyldiol, Jojoba Esters, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Ergothioneine, Gellan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Cetearyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum